Astola: the lost paradise of Pakistan (18 photos)

In the turquoise waters of the Arabian Sea, 25 kilometers off the coast of Balochistan, an uninhabited ghost island stands frozen in time.





These are seven kilometers of pristine beaches with dazzling white sand, framed by chalk cliffs, and narrow bays hidden in rock folds that resemble Mediterranean landscapes.



Astola, or Jazira Haft Talar (Seven Hills Island), has been Pakistan's best-kept secret for decades. Its unspoiled beauty is preserved by its inaccessibility: a seven-hour 4x4 from Karachi to the fishing village of Pasni, then another three hours by boat across the capricious sea. There are no hotels, just an ancient lighthouse and a modest mosque. Travelers spend the night in tents and their days exploring the coral gardens with a mask.





From September to May, when fishermen set up temporary camps on the island to catch lobsters and oysters, Astola reveals its magic. The water here is transparent at a depth of 6 meters and mesmerizingly changes shades from turquoise to sapphire. The tide draws a new pattern on the sand every day. Dolphins frolic in the local bays, and whales swim off the coast.



But from June to August, the monsoons turn Astola into an impregnable fortress, and the sea becomes treacherous and dangerous.



Almost devoid of vegetation due to the lack of fresh water, the island is teeming with life underwater. Coral reefs have become home to hundreds of species of fish. Sandy beaches are the last refuge of the endangered green turtles. The unique endemic viper Echis carinatus astolae also lives here.



But this paradise is in danger. Poachers, plastic waste and imported rats have already destroyed the largest colony of seagulls in the region. Cats abandoned by fishermen are destroying turtle nests.



In 2017, Astola received the status of Pakistan's first marine reserve. Despite the lack of minimal tourist infrastructure, Astola is a popular, if complex, ecotourism destination and a mystery - beautiful and vulnerable, like a glass figurine thrown into the stormy sea.





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